Overnight in RMNP Mid April

I’d hate to admit it, but in the 10-plus years I have lived in Colorado, I haven’t camped in RMNP.

And when I say camp these days, it’s usually in the van. I’m sure there are a number of purists who would say I’m not camping. I like sleeping in tents. But to be honest, as I get older, the idea of lying on the ground becomes less appealing. Truthfully, you can tolerate shitty weather a lot easier.

The van has been the way to go. When the weather is warmer, I’ll think about getting in a tent.

On Friday, my partner and I took off up to RMNP. Early in the spring season, the park doesn’t require reservations. So up until the weekend before memorial day, the Morraine Campground is first-come, first-serve.

We got there mid-morning, a little before standard check-in time. But there were few people there. Took a quick lap and found out we forgot cash or a check for the camp fee. So we had to drive back into Estes Park to try and locate an ATM. That’s a nightmare in itself. But it wasn’t full tourist season yet, so not bad. That was a real bonehead move on my part. But it wouldn’t be an adventure if bonehead didn’t show up.

We still got the space extra early. We chose an open spot; most of the spots on the other side of the loop were taken or snowed in. Even in the center of the loop road, some of the tent spots still have old drifts.

But for us, it didn’t matter, we had a van. So we paid for the spot and left two camp chairs and a cheap old tent to mark the place. It wasn’t even noon yet.

Close to the camp, there are two trailheads, Cub Lake and Fern Lake. There is a way to hike down to them from camp, but we didn’t take the time to find out.

Most of the Cub Lake trail is flat; only in the last 3/4 of a mile does it start to get steep. But up to that last steep part, the trail follows along the watershed, passing ponds and wetlands. The wind has been unseasonably strong for the past week here. The wind that day was more of the same.

The first part of the trail is rather open, then it becomes a little more sheltered as it follows along the edge of the watershed. It’s still high up here, and the further we went up, the more and more snow crept onto the trail.

The last half mile and the trail was still covered in snow. Packed down and even icy in spots. By the end, the trek was worth it, even if the lake was half frozen.

Lots of downed trees at the lake, and you can see evidence of past fires that have torn through the area. Whole hilltops next to the lake look like bare matchsticks. Getting down to the lake is tricky with all the downed trees. But the view of the snow-capped mountains in the back is worth it.

The hike back was exciting. My partner had noticed something moving on the way up. As we were heading back, a couple told us there was a moose right on the side of the trail. It was a small juvenile one, but still a thrill nevertheless.

The camp was simple. With the van, you are quite self-contained. We cooked outside. I haven’t and won’t make a cooking area in the van. Not enough space, and it just adds a lot more cleaning and worrying about carbon monoxide.

Earlier in the Spring, I upgraded the mattress in the van. It’s much thicker and more comfortable. Huge improvement in sleeping.

Early in the morning, before sunrise, I heard birds’ progression as the sun rose. It wasn’t too cold, about 35 F. A fine crisp morning. There is something about sitting and waiting as the sun comes up in the cold. You can’t rush it; all you can do is wait.